Video Topkapi Palace by Greg Sill

Here is another faboluous video by Greg Sill following our excursion to Topkapi Palace. 

Video Romeli Fortress by Greg Sill

Click below for an amazing video production by Greg Sill, one of the NEH scholars.  Thanks for sharing Greg!

Closing Dinner

Closing Dinner

Our closing dinner took place on the hotel terrace overlooking Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque.  A beautiful evening.  A great comparison to our opening dinner where we all seemed so formal and full of first introductions.  The closing dinner was jovial and revealed the friendships that had sprung up amongst us. 

With my roommate, Megan Calvin.  Thanks for putting up with smelly running clothes and early morning facetime calls, Megan!

 

 

 

Special gifts went to our leaders, Emre and Matthew.  Emre received a Fenerbahce soccer ball signed by all of us.  He and Allison also received a wedding gift from us...congratulations and best wishes to you both!  What an exciting way to begin your life together!

 

Matthew received a small book which we all contributed gratitude and well wishes.  A picture of us in front of Sulemaniye Mosque and a monetary contribution to the Istanbul School for Disabilities.  Matthew works with this school with students on a service project trip from UC-San Diego.  Thank you Matthew for all your hard work in developing this institute! 

 

 

 

 

A picture with Professor Bob Strayer, the author of our textbook, The Ways of the World.  I appreciated the lectures and historical context as we focused on Istanbul!

Final Post

Early tomorrow morning I leave Istanbul for Minneapolis.  Some things I have learned on my trip...

Iftar Etiquette

In previous posts I have shared information about Ramadan, the month long fast from sunup to sundown.  Particularly difficult during the long days in the summertime, non-fasting Americans find it especially difficult to remember the proper etiquette when it comes to observing Ramadan.

Some things to consider:

Gezi Park

It seemed appropriate to visit Gezi Park in Taksim Square towards the end of our trip.  Back in June, as I was preparing for my trip, groups of predominately young people began protesting in the park.  Upset with a variety of authoritarian measures, they were responding to one particular development...the removal of green space in order to make way for a shopping mall built in the form of historical military barracks.  Police used aggressive measures to squelch the demonstrations...water cannons, tear gas, beatings and arrests.  As these demonstrations played out on international media, CNN Turk was playing a documentary on penguins. 

Demonstrators quickly reacted with unique and sometimes humorous methods of protest.  See below...

Ramadan in Minnesota

An interesting article from home...

StarTribune Ramadan in MN

Military and Art Museums

We have spent a lot of time discussing narratives in our institute.  How does an empire, like the Byzantine or Ottoman, construct their narrative?  How does modern day turkey explain transitions in power?  Do Turkish citizens agree with the narrative?  Great questions for us to discuss and bring back to the classroom.

The Military Museum is definitely the government/armed forces narrative.  How many pictures of cannons, muskets, and helmets can I take?  Large impressive murals of Ottoman and Turkic victories without a lot of mention of defeats.  Makes me wonder how various groups view the US historical narratives...how do Native American populations feel when they visit Fort Snelling?  Do we have our own examples of nationalism within our museums?

Sultan Mehmet II, Conqueror of Byzantium.  High Five, Mehmet!

Constantinople becomes Istanbul 1453

One small room was particularly interesting to the NEH group.  I have several ideas in mind for how to present the issue of narratives to my students based on this exhibit.

The Armenian "Issue" from a military perspective

The Janissary Military Band

Next we went to the Art Museum, Sakip Sabanci Museum.  They had a beautiful exhibit on Orientalism.  The idea, developed by Edward Said, argues that Europeans constructed a narrative describing the Orient as exotic and mysterious and used it to justify colonialism, at times.  Then as these incorrect attitudes towards the east spread, Ottomans adopted it and reconstructed it back into their culture.  I hope I'm giving the idea justice here, anyway, a very different narrative than the military history and beautiful artwork.  My friend, Darcie Caswell, would have loved it! 

No pictures allowed inside the museum (see the museum site under related links) but here is the garden outside and a lovely view of the Bosphorus. 

Happy Ramadan (Ramazan)!!

We were sitting in a local café as the sun went down on Tuesday...the first full day of fasting.  It was interesting to see the wait staff all sit together and eat just as the call to prayer and cannon fire signaled the breaking of the fast.  Reminded me a little of the staff lunch time at school...eating very quickly and then back to work. 

Our dinner with Prof. Robert Strayer, author of my textbook, Ways of the World.  Greg and Kevin, the guys in the front, fasted for the day in honor of Ramadan.  Here we are breaking the fast at (an early) dinner. 

You can sense the anticipation of the call to prayer marking Iftar, the breaking of the fast each evening.  Like a city-wide picnic, garbage collectors, families, tourists, everyone feels welcome at the table. 

Next I explored the Ramadan Bazaar...a very festive atmosphere. 

A weaver holding a silkworm cocoon and proudly displaying textiles made on the loom in the background. 

Families celebrating the first day of Ramadan and the breaking of the fast.  Free food is served in the Hippodrome and people visit and shop until the early morning hours. 

The Blue Mosque with a lit up sign celebrating Ramadan. 

One of the stages set up for music and speeches. 

Dolmabahce Palace and Fatih Mosque

On Tuesday we went to Dolmabahce Palace, the Imperial Palace built between 1843 and 1856.  Sultan Abdulmecid constructed the palace and moved the imperial family out of Topkapi (see earlier post).  Dolmabahce is an ornate mix of Ottoman and European influence, especially evident is Baroque, Rococo and Neoclassical artistic styles.  You can really see the European influence during this time of reform in the Ottoman empire (Tanzimat Reform).  The palace didn't allow pictures inside so check out the website under related links on the side.  Here are some pictures of the grounds and the nearby mosque. 

The mosque had a crystal chandelier just like many of the grand rooms in the palace.

Next a few of us ventured off the tourist track and towards the Fatih Mosque, named after Mehmet II, the sultan that conquered Constantinople in 1453.  Built upon the site of the Church of the Holy Apostles, we were fortunate to arrive just in time for the call to prayer.  We weren't sure if they would let us in during prayer time, but we stood in the back and watched the mosque fill up.  A very cool experience on the first day of Ramadan!

On our way to the mosque, the Aqueduct Valens--a mix of ancient and modern...now part of Ataturk Blvd. 

Sufism and the Whirling Dervish

Sunday we shifted gears and had some down time.  After a leisurely brunch and reading time, some of us went in search of the "Agatha Christie hotel," the Pera Palace hotel.  This is where she stayed when writing The Orient Express.  The terrace provided a beautiful view and a snack. 

The old train station in Istanbul

The lobby

A cellist playing at Galata Tower while we shopped

After some shopping, the NEH group met up at the Mevlana Education and Culture Association for a Sema, or Whirling Dervish ceremony.  It was an intimate setting in which to watch Islamic Sufis practice their turning.  Sufism, founded by Mevlana Celaleddin Rumi, was established in the 13th Century and was the vehicle for the spread of Islam throughout parts of the Middle East, South and South East Asia, and the Mediterranean region.

The musicians played music and recited prayers while the Sufis turned. 

The Sema ceremony consists of various stages allowing the Sufis to enter a new state of being.  They appear to be entranced as they pass from one stage to the next. 

After such a spiritual ceremony, a couple of us decided to focus on the physical...the hammam.  Cimberlitas Turkish bath has existed since the 1500s.  Within domed rooms, women in bikini bottoms lay on a warm marble slab and wait for Turkish women to bath them.  Once scrubbed, soaped, and splashed with various temperatures of water, it was time to soak in the Jacuzzi and get a massage.  A terrific treat after two busy weeks of the program!  Sorry, no pictures allowed at the Turkish bath!  But check out their website on the right side of the blog--related links. 

Saturday excursion to Ephesus

Saturday was a busy day...starting with a 4:00 AM wake up call, bus ride, quick flight, bus ride to several destinations in Izmir. 

4th of July in Istanbul

How do Americans celebrate the 4th of July in Istanbul?

Coca-Cola--what's more American than that?

Traditional Turkish Dessert...chocolate has a universal appeal.

Celebrating new friendships across the USA in Taksim Square